![]() ![]() When it comes to using the bow, it features an anti-dry fire protection system that does not fire when a bolt is not loaded. The Hori-Zone pistol crossbow comes with a bow stringer, which makes it quite easy and safe to set up, then get down to business. However, this can be a tough process because the limbs are usually made to resist pulling inwards. I actually started drawing up a set of plans and making a 3d model for it, alas I'm out of time for the day.maybe I'll put some more work in tonight.Most crossbows need to be assembled (strung) before first use. I've thought about the construction of this bow too, personally I'd make it all out of metal ( ), but considering it's going to be a rather light bow I think some thin plywood will suffice (maybe some dense 1/4" or 3/8") with some holes drilled in the levers to lighten them. Same here, the weight of this transitional piece has to be accounted for when designing a bow.so to cut it short - I really like the system with a "pull rod" or "cable" (like in the second video and on the flipper.) because it's lighter and that will already boost the bows performance.not to mention the power storage for it.if rubber is used (though not as consistent as a metal or gas spring) even more weight will be cut down resulting in further improvement. Basically we're comparing here a chair leg and a piece of rope.which one is heavier? Like so.Ī similar setup can be seen on this little flipper bow where the rubber bands are up front and pulling on the cables.īut, I'm not too fond of "push rods", the deal is that a structure that supports weight has to be strong enough to withstand the load in compression.while to suspend the same weight teh structure can be substituted by a cable or a rod only strong enough to withstand the load in tension. ![]() I didn't really go into the deal with which is more efficient, just set everything up to run the same speed (o ne video just lagged, but side by side worked ok)Īll in all, the whole deal with converting from compression spring to extension is throwing the spring over to the other side of the rods. This is with the *pull* rods.(I just flipped the levers there) This is with the *push* rods.(like on the original) Made some animations of the bow with the extension spring set up.Ĭan't upload them to the tube for some reason, so here's my photobucket deal. Lets see some pictures of the spine you got and maybe we can draw up and explore some sketches for more ideas. Paint it with white/gray or white/brown crackle effect paint, maybe?Īnother fun thought would be to sculpt some floral/scroll appliques onto the bare sections of the frame and then paint them int some accenting color (off white stock, red scrolls / off white stock, black scrolls.I mean it's a thing of taste.in fact I think apoxie sculpt already comes in different shades, so you have some options ).Īll in all, I love it! It's a real cool idea and will take or make an artist to execute. Perhaps you can do a skeletized frame from some maple ply to pin the bones to ( it will be easier to mount the trigger/prod onto a frame) and then smooth the frame to bone connection with some putty? Spine alone though might be a bit of a challenge. I've had similar sinister thoughts for a long time now, using lower jaw section from cattle or a shoulder blade for a buttstock, hip bone or humerus for the tiller, some other bits fitted to make the pistol grip.haaa! That's some fun stuff! » need help contacting le musee Dauphinois Grenoble » Skane/Lillohus lockbow information needed » 400lb Windlass crossbow bolts weight and accuracy shooting high. » prod angle, and lever trigger for sale anyone? » Questions around heavy crossbow lath buildin » Colletiere a Charavines continuing experiment ![]()
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